2009 Bordeaux Reviews PDF

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4-27-10 ROBERT PARKER’S WINE ADVOCATE ISSUE 188 2009 Barde-Haut St Emilion, Rating: (93-95*) A tiny crop of 18 hectoliters per hectare (the result of the mid-May hail damage) lead to an opaque purplecolored, richest, most concentrated, biggest Barde-Haut made to date. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 possesses an intense bouquet of mulberries, boysenberries, charcoal, toast, and graphite. Extremely full-bodied, thick, and viscous with good freshness and definition as
  4-27-10 ROBERT PARKER’S WINE ADVOCATE ISSUE 188 2009 Barde-Haut  St Emilion, Rating: (93-95*)A tiny crop of 18 hectoliters per hectare (the result of the mid-May hail damage) lead to an opaque purple-colored, richest, most concentrated, biggest Barde-Haut made to date. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10%Cabernet Franc, the 2009 possesses an intense bouquet of mulberries, boysenberries, charcoal, toast,and graphite. Extremely full-bodied, thick, and viscous with good freshness and definition as well assweet, but high tannins, this beauty can be enjoyed over the next two decades. (Tasted two times.)Drink 2010 – 2030 2009 Belle Vue Haut Medoc Rating: (90-92*)Not to be confused with St.-Emilion’s Bellevue, this has been one of the most consistent Medoc crubourgeois over a number of years, and the 2009 may reach new quality heights. A big-time sleeper of thevintage, this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 20% Petit Verdot boasts a dense purplecolor as well as notes of creme de cassis and spring flowers, terrific fruit, sweet but noticeable tannin, andmedium to full body. It can be drunk young or cellared for 8-10 years. (Tasted once.) Drink 2010 – 2020 2009 Branaire-Ducru St Julien Rating: (92-95)Only time will tell whether the 2009, another great effort from Branaire, will eclipse the 2005 and 2003.Certainly at 13.6% alcohol it is the most powerful Branaire ever made, and the final blend of 70%Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot showcases what a greatvintage 2009 is for Cabernet Sauvignon. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by raspberry, boysenberry,crushed rock, graphite, and floral notes, and an opaque, broad, dense, substantial, impressivelystructured wine without any hardness. It requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last four decades or more. (Tasted two times.) Drink 2014 – 2054 2009 Canon la Gaffeliere St Emilion Rating: (94-96)Proprietor Stephan von Neipperg has made so many terrific wines at this estate since the late 1980s, it’shard to say that the 2009 is going to turn out to be the finest, but did it show well on the four separatetimes I tasted it! A final blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, and a whopping 10% CabernetSauvignon (somewhat unusual for this area of St.-Emilion), the natural alcohol was 14%. StephaneDerenoncourt is the long-time wine consultant at all of Stephan von Neipperg’s estates. Yields wereshockingly low here, 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is a beauty of both elegance and power.Dark ruby/purple, with notes of incense, sweet cedar, black cherry jam, cassis, and blackberry as well aslicorice and subtle smoke, this wine has superb texture, a full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning concentration,and not a hard edge to be found. It is one of those remarkable 2009s with amazing power and density,but also tremendous finesse, precision, and freshness, an anomaly in itself. This wine should drink wellfor 15-20 years, based on the fact that the 1990, a vintage far lower in acidity and not nearly asconcentrated, is still at the top of its game. Bravo! (Tasted four times.) Drink 2010 – 2030 2009 Cantenac Brown Margaux Rating: (94-96*)The greatest Cantenac Brown I have ever tasted, this monumental effort possesses enormousconcentration, with loads of black and blue fruits intermixed with damp earth and forest floor. I have never seen a Cantenac Brown so seamless, so powerful, yet at the same time, so elegant and denselycomplex. They have certainly done something here that has not been accomplished over the last threedecades I have been tasting this estate’s wines. Opaque purple in color and full-bodied, this big-timesleeper of the vintage merits serious attention for the first time in my professional career. Kudos to thenew ownership and team at Cantenac Brown. This wine should evolve over a 30-year period. (Tasted twotimes.) Drink 2010 – 2040  2009 Certan de May Pomerol Rating: (93-95)The most powerful, finest overall wine made at this estate since their 1982, the muscular 2009 reveals adense ruby/purple color in addition to meaty, smoky notes of black cherries, iron, truffles, loamy soil, andspice. Dense, full-bodied, and virile with a boatload of tannin, patience will be a virtue as this wine needs5-6 years of cellaring. It should last for three decades or more. (Tasted three times.) Drink 2015 – 2045 2009 Clerc Milon Pauillac Rating: (90-92+)Despite the fact there is 44% Merlot in this wine (blended with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6%Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carmenere), this is a tannic, structured, backward Clerc Milon, which isatypical for this estate. Perhaps I just caught it at a time when the structure was dominating. It is a deepruby/purple-hued, concentrated, impressively endowed effort that requires serious cellar age, 4-5 yearsminimum. It should last for 20-25 years. (Tasted two times.) Drink 2014 – 2039 2009 Cos d'Estournel St Estephe Rating: (98-100*)The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted ... in the world! Anextraordinary effort I tasted on two separate occasions, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and therest primarily Merlot with a dollop of Cabernet Franc has a whopping 14.5% alcohol, but a remarkablynormal pH of 3.69. Kudos to Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier for this amazing wine madefrom yields of 33 hectoliters per hectare. It will be a legendary claret that should last for 50-60 years. Ablack/purple color is accompanied by aromas of graphite, ink, creme de cassis, blackberries, cedar, andincense. Full-bodied and unctuously textured, with an ethereal personality, tons of nuances, and aburgeoning complexity, it is an enormously well-endowed, fresh, perfectly balanced tour de force inwinemaking. As mentioned above, it should drink well for 50-60 years. This wine possesses this vintage’sclassic characteristics of enormous power, massive fruit, and extraordinary freshness and precision -largely unprecedented, particularly for Cabernet-based wines in the Medoc. (Tasted two times.) Drink2010 – 2070 2009 D'Armailhac Pauillac Rating: (90-93*)This may be the finest d’Armailhac I have ever tasted. Made in a textured, full-bodied, sumptuous style, itis a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and the balance primarily Cabernet Franc with a tinydosage of Petit Verdot. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple hue along with floral, red and black currant, cedar,and spice characteristics. Deep, medium to full-bodied, and impressively pure as well as long, it shoulddrink well for 25 years. (Tasted three times.)   Drink 2010 – 2035 2009 D'Issan Margaux Rating: (93-95)Following the lustrous 2000 and 2005, the 2009 is another terrific effort from proprietor Emmanuel Cruse.Tiny yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare, 13.7% natural alcohol, and a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignonand 38% Merlot have resulted in a wine boasting stunning minerality along with notes of flowers,blueberries, and black currants. Full-bodied with silky tannin, a tremendous opulence, and levels of density and richness never before seen at this estate, this brilliant d’Issan should age for three decadesor more. (Tasted two times.) Drink 2010 – 2040 2009 Duhart-Milon-Rothschild Pauillac Rating: (94-96*)2009 may turn out to be among the greatest vintages ever in the Medoc. The 2009 appears to be thefinest Duhart Milon yet made. The Rothschild family has invested heavily in this estate over the last 20years in order to upgrade the quality, and their investments have certainly paid off handsomely. A blendof 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, the 2009's opaque purple color is followed by anextraordinary perfume of creme de cassis, violets, graphite, and subtle wood. This full-bodied, intense,voluptuously textured, pure, seductive wine seems more open-knit and opulent than the more structured  Carruades de Lafite. Nevertheless, the Duhart requires 3-5 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 30+ years. Bravo! (Tasted once.) Drink 2013 – 2043 2009 Fombrauge St Emilion Rating: (91-93*)From yields of 27 hectoliters per hectare, the fruit for the uber-concentrated 2009 Fombrauge washarvested between October 6 and 22, very late in 2009, thus the super ripeness, concentration, anddensity. Notes of truffles, graphite, blackberries, and blueberries jump from the glass of this full-bodied,unctuously textured, thick, juicy St.-Emilion. The abundant tannin is largely concealed by the extravagantfruit and richness. The final blend is approximately 3/4 Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and CabernetSauvignon. It should drink well in 3-4 years, and last for 15-20. (Tasted three times.) Drink 2013 – 2033 2009 Gironville Haut Medoc Haut Medoc Rating: (89-91*)The 2009 Gironville is the best wine I have ever tasted from this estate in the southern Medoc. A blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Petit Verdot that achieved 14% natural alcohol, thissleeper of the vintage exhibits a dark purple color in addition to beautiful notes of graphite, blueberries,flowers, and cassis, and a long, layered mouthfeel. A sensational value, the 2009 should drink well for adecade. (Tasted once.) Drink 2010 – 2020 2009 Grand-Mayne St Emilion Rating: (91-94)I enjoy this wine in nearly every vintage (the 1998 was one of my all-time favorites), and while the 2009may not be better than the 1998, it is an impressive effort. Moreover, it represents a great value in top-notch Bordeaux. Its opaque purple color is followed by plenty of blueberry, boysenberry, and raspberryfruit notes intermixed with subtle hints of graphite and oak. The wine possesses ripe tannin, full-bodiedpower, admirable purity, and impressive amounts of glycerin and sweetness from its high ripeness (butnot over-ripeness) in the finish. Consume it over the next 15+ years. (Tasted three times.) Drink 2010 –2025 2009 Grand-Puy-Ducasse Pauillac Rating: (90-93*)Possibly the finest wine yet produced at this estate, the 2009 is even fatter, richer, and more unctuouslytextured than the 2005 (which I loved). It boasts an opaque purple color, thrilling levels of sweet creme decassis and blackberries along with hints of underbrush as well as forest floor, silky tannins, full body, anda plush, heady, opulent personality. This stunning wine should drink well for two decades. (Tasted threetimes.) Drink 2010 – 2030 2009 Gruaud Larose St Julien Rating: (92-94+)This is the finest Gruaud Larose since the 1990. Without a hint of brett in the 2009, it exhibits an opaquepurple color along with a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, new saddle leather, spice box, andboysenberries. Made in a rich, broad, savory, juicy style with lots of succulence, but none of themasculinity and ruggedness often found in this offering, this wine is loaded with concentration and extract.The tannins are largely concealed by the remarkable intensity of fruit and density. It should be drinkablein 7-8 years, and last for 30-40. (Tasted two times.) Drink 2017 – 2057 2008 Hosanna Pomerol Rating: (96-98)The outstanding 2008 Hosanna, a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, possesses theextraordinary complexity and aromatic intensity of a great vintage of Cheval Blanc. Unctuously-texturedwith a dense purple color, excellent richness, and dense black fruits intermixed with forest floor notes, this  sensational wine will merit close to a three digit score when released. The tannins are high, but very ripeand melted, and the wine’s purity is awesome. Give it 3-4 years of bottle age, and enjoy it over thefollowing two decades. Owned by Christian Moueix, Hosanna’s vineyard was culled from the tenderloinsection of the estate formerly known as Certan-Giraud. The wine from the rest of that vineyard is nowproduced under the name Certan-Marzelle. Drink 2012 – 2032 2009 La Gaffeliere St Emilion Rating: (94-96)One of the old, historic vineyards in St.-Emilion, owned by a family that goes back to the 1400s, this winehas gone from strength to strength over the last decade. Cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare in 2009,during a harvest that took place between September 29 and October 9, the final blend of 80% Merlot and20% Cabernet Franc will never produce a massive wine, but rather one of great elegance. The differencein 2009 is that this wine also has compelling intensity of fruit, and more opulence and viscosity than usual.At 13.5%, the alcohol is relatively modest compared to what many St.-Emilions achieved in this vintage.Dense purple, with terrific purity and a thickness without heaviness, black cherry, black currant, andsuper-concentrated cranberry and kirsch notes as well as hints of spring flowers and minerals are allpresent in this medium to full-bodied wine. It also possesses fabulous purity, texture, and transparency.Drink it over the next 30-35 years. (Tasted four times.) Drink 2010 – 2045 2009 La Conseillante Pomerol Rating: (95-98)Now that La Conseillante is making a second wine with more severe selection, think of the 2009 as aversion of the 2000 on steroids. This is never going to be a blockbuster wine, because the terroir justseems to produce silky, elegant wines, but in this case, the 2009 has an extra kick and level of concentration that is unprecedented. Inky bluish purple, with an extraordinary nose of framboise, blackraspberries, spring flowers, spice box, and a hint of truffle, the wine has great depth, full-bodied opulence,silky tannins, enormous power and richness, but again, a vibrancy and uplift that are just freakish in thisvintage. That’s one of the great hallmarks of 2009 and one that will always stand out over the next 30years. This wine should be drinkable in 5-7 years and last 40 or more. (Tasted three times.) Drink 2015 –2055 2009 Angelus St Emilion Rating: (96-100)I tasted this three separate times, and on two occasions I thought it had the potential to be a perfect wine.The home estate of Hubert de Bouard, this 62+ acre vineyard produced a 60% Merlot and 40% CabernetFranc blend in 2009, with yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, and a whopping alcohol degree of 14.5%.Of course, the latter component is not even noticeable, as that is one of the erroneous myths about highalcohol in some 2009 Bordeaux. It just doesn’t show, thanks to the wine’s extraordinary concentration.This is a fabulous wine, with that tell-tale, dense, inky blue color that Angelus always seems to achieve. Itdisplays an extraordinary nose of acacia flowers (or is it violets?) intermixed with blueberry liqueur, blackraspberries, cassis, licorice, incense, and graphite. Full-bodied, viscous, with great intensity , vibrancy,and transparency, this is one of the all-time great wines from Angelus and a 21st century version of their 1989 and 1990. It should drink well for 20+ years – at the very minimum. (Tasted three times.) Drink2010 – 2030 2009 Latour St Bonnet Medoc Rating: (88-90*)This has been one of the most reliable wines in Bordeaux over the last 30+ years, and I have enjoyedmany vintages of it. It sells for a song, and the 2009 may turn out to be the best they have ever made.This inky purple-colored wine offers up notes of creme de cassis, spring flowers, and forest floor that
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