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Introduction Training proposal Objectives To promote alignment and consolidation of the desired posture for the professional technician, the master franchise for franchisees, ensuring a stand ard of training as their methodology and didactics. Opportunity to update profes sional technicians to hairdressers. Improve or develop knowledge and practical s kills of technical professional before any product line Aneethun. Enable the pro fessional technician to work in the franchises with sales trainin
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Introduction Training proposal Objectives To promote alignment and consolidation of the desired posture for the professional technician, the master franchise for franchisees, ensuring a stand ard of training as their methodology and didactics. Opportunity to update profes sional technicians to hairdressers. Improve or develop knowledge and practical s kills of technical professional before any product line Aneethun. Enable the pro fessional technician to work in the franchises with sales training for consultan ts and end customer. notions of Cosmetology The cosmetology aims to study and develop cosmetics intended to preserve, beauti fy and repair the skin and hair. Store: keep hair in good condition, clean and s ilky soft. Embellish: to make hair more beautiful, like development and choosing the appropriate product for each hair type. Repair: mitigate the effects that m ade the hair brittle, dull, with split ends, devitalized, seborrhea etc.. Cosmet ics are products that are used for cleaning, maintenance, protection and decorat ion of skin, nails and hair since that did not show pathological changes. TECHNIQUES Trichology Tricology The word comes from Latin for Greek study of hair. To understand the a ctions of the substances contained in hair, we know the composition and structur e of hair. The basic knowledge is essential when working with chemicals or forms services that transform hair to be physically or chemically. Hair follicle The hair follicles by producers, develop during the first months of intrauterine life. After 22 weeks, the fetus has mature follicles. There is no formation of new follicles in the body after this stage, ie the number of hairs, including ha ir, that a person has in life is determined before birth. Hair grows resting stages interspersed with phases of growth, so that the wires are at different stages in their development cycles. Genetic factors influence o n the growth of hair, but there are other influences: Hormones - Hormones modify the growth of hair in puberty, pregnancy, menopause, and in old age due to glan dular disorders. Nutrition - The food poor in proteins, vitamins and unsaturated fats alter the hair cycle. Any factor that reduces the synthesis of proteins pa ssed on hair growth. Radical regimes or states of malnutrition increase the numb er of follicles in the resting phase, determining the thinning, the loss of brig htness and cessation of growth of the wires. Chemical properties - Many substanc es and drugs can influence the growth of the wires. Mental - Emotional disorders may result in loss of the wires. Protein The union of several amino acids form a protein called keratin. The human hair c onsists of approximately 85% of keratin, (ranging from 65% to 95%). Like the oth er proteins, keratin is formed by the union of several amino acids, including cy stine, which is composed of sulfur. Main constituent of all living organisms, co mprising 89% of the human hair structure. Keratin is composed of about 19 differ ent amino acids that are repeated and interact. Keratin amino acids interact thr ough hydrogen bonds and covalent disulfide (-SS-) bonds denominated cisteídicas therefore occurs between amino acid cysteine. There is a diversity of proteins f ound in nature that can be applied to hair cosmetics such as Silk Proteins, marr ow Boi, Aloe, Seaweed, Keratin and others. Two important points distinguish the proteins as to its effectiveness in the treatment of human hair: Molecular Weigh t and Quantity of amino acids. Molecular Weight: measures the size of the molecu le in any substance. A substance must have its molecular weight less than or equ al to 300 mol. Amino acids are elements that form the keratin. Keratins are long chains of protein molecules composed of more than 19 types of amino acids. Amino acids have an important function of retaining moisture in hair. Hence the need for its use in hair treatments that suffer from the action of dyes, straighteni ng, or bleaching action of external agents on virgin hair. Hydrolyzed Keratin is a solution of low molecular weight, which facilitates deep penetration into the hair providing them restoration, conditioning, hydration, shine and vitality. T he use of products containing Hydrolyzed Keratin helps reequelíbrio water conten t and distribution of electric charges in addition to effective restructuring. MOLECULAR WEIGHT Molecular Weight: It s a measure that allows us to scale the size of the molecul e in any substance. To penetrate the cuticle layer on a hair a substance must ha ve its molecular weight less than 300. TYPES OF PROTEIN USED IN hair care line Ideal condition for treatment of hair reconstruction Maximo Molecular Weight: 30 0 amino Supported: 20 Type Plant Animal Keratin Hydrolyzed Collagen Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Human Keratin Source Soybeans, wheat and corn and meat scraps Leather Skin Horns, Feathers and beaks Human Hair Lab Molecular Weight Daltons 100 000 From: 5,000 to 10,000 from 2000 2000: 150-300 De: 150-1000 Amino Compatible From 1-3 From: 10-10 From: From 10-13: 12-15 20 18 The Molecular Weight of Hydrolyzed Keratin Aneethun is 250 daltons and Creatin e is 131.13 daltons .. Properties of hair COLOR The color of hair depends on the distribution and type of melanin present in the cortex. Melanin is umpigmento suffering genetic control and may be of two types, which combined, are responsible for the variety of colors that can be ob served. Responsible for eumelanin hair color brown and black. Responsible for ph eomelanin hair color blond and red hair. Brightness Brightness is the reflection of light at a surface. In hair, the brightness depends on the organization of t he cuticle. When the scales are arranged to reflect light and promote shine. If hair is damaged cuticles present themselves open and the hair loses shine. The b rightness can also be lowered by residual particles left in their hair when they are not properly flushed. Chemical Hair Chemical Structure Chemistry is the science that deals with the composition and properties of subst ances and reactions that give rise to substances or convert them to others. Scie nce is a word derived from the Latin verb scire which means know . Science is about knowledge of the facts or understanding of its causes and effects. Three basic steps of science are: Observation; Reasoning; Experimentation In our study , we found a complex composed of keratin solid, which begins with a tiny atom. A toms form the elements. Among the elements contained in the hair shaft (wire) ar e: Carbon (51%) Nitrogen (18%), Oxygen (19%), hydrogen (7%) Sulfur (5%) Other (1 %) Other items make up less than 1% of the mass of hair: trace metals - Copper, Iron, Chromium, Zinc, Iodine, Cobalt and Aluminum. The elements are grouped to f orm amino acids, which in turn are grouped to form the proteins that give rise t o the hair. The strongest portion of the hair is the cuticle, which contains a h igh percentage of sulfur amino acids (amino acids of sulfur) and represents approximately 80% of the structural strength of the hair. The wire water contains ap proximately 7% water, vital for hair. 12% of the weight of the hair on temperatu re and humidity. The amount of water the hair is critical to the chemical, physi cal and mechanical properties. When hair is wet, it becomes less resistant, ie, breaks more easily and can also be stretched to greater length before breaking t he increased relative humidity increases the amount of water in the hair. The ha ir contains lipids lipids inside and outside. Lipids are provided by external fa t; inmates are part of the structure of hair. The wire contains about 3% lipids. Pigments are particles that give color to hair, scattered in the cortex, has on average 2% Wire capillary structure Yarn structure The hair is an extremely resistant material, this is by having a complex structu re and be composed of keratin. The appearance of the wire is very simple, but wh en magnified reveals the complexity of its structure. The exterior is protected by scales. In the center is the medulla. The rest of the cortex is made up of ma ny cells. cuticle marrow Cortex cortex Cuticle Seem scales that are cohesive through a cement rich in amino acids. Has between 5 and 10 cell layers is transparent and so allows you to see this color in the c ortex. The cuticle forms a protective barrier and prevents the penetration of ch emical agents inside the wire, there are few avenues for dissemination via this network cuticle. When damaged, the wire surface appears rough and irregularities affecting the combing, the feel, shine and softness of the yarn. Marrow The bone is not always present or occurs discontinuously, are nearly empty cells , anucleate, containing lipid and pigment granules. It is believed that bone mar row cells contribute little in the physical and chemical properties of hair.€The y are also poorly studied due to the difficulty of isolating these cells. Cortex Main component of hair, responsible for the strength, shape and color of the wir es because it is this region that are willing melanin granules that lead to hair color. The morphology of human hair depends on the cortical cells and by an alk aline pH can overcome the cuticle and reach the cortex, making it possible to tr ansform the shape and color of the wires. Even dead layers of keratin cells have micro-organisms and prevent dehydration of the cells that are below (as the ker atin is impermeable to water) and prevents friction harm living cells servindolh es barrier. Expanding even more, you can see that each of these cells consists o f a set of macrofibrils, composed, in turn, by microfibrils, which are formed by seven protofibrilhas. In this region we find the following chemical bonds: ã Hydrogen Bonds: weak link s are, the simple act of wetting the hair on their length is increased. ã Ionic interactions (secondary) creep happens when we turn the hair temporarily. ã Conn ection of sulfur (primary): also known as disulphide bonds, is only broken by th e chemical and its transformation is permanent. hair growth Hair grows resting stages interspersed with phases of growth, so that the wires are at different stages in their development cycles. Genetic determinants influe nce the growth of hair, but there are other influences Hormones - hormones modify the growth of hair in puberty, pregnancy, menopause, and in old age due to gla ndular disorders. Nutrition - The food poor in proteins, vitamins and unsaturate d fats alter the hair cycle. Any factor that reduces the synthesis of proteins p assed on hair growth. Radical regimes or states of malnutrition increase the num ber of follicles in the resting phase, determining the thinning, the loss of bri ghtness and cessation of growth of the wires. Chemical properties - Many substan ces and drugs can influence the growth of the wires. Mental - Emotional disorder s may result in loss of the wires. Aging - With advancing age comes a major redu ction in the scalp fibroblasts that produce collagen. Added to this the trophic changes resulting from free radicals that damage cells in the hair follicle. The result is a lower density of hair on the scalp. Anagen Phase This is the phase of hair growth, which can last up to seven years. In an adult, about 90 percent of the hair is in anagen phase. In the growing phase (anagen), lasting peculiar to each individual, the hairs grow on average 10-20 cm per yea r. Phase Catagen This is the shortest stage and lasts only a few weeks. The growth stops and the deepest part of the hair follicle becomes shorter, getting closer to the surface of the scalp. Telogen Phase The hair comes to rest and do not grow. An adult has about 10% of hairs in the t elogen phase. At the end of the telogen phase, the hair falls out. But before th at occurs, a new hair in the anagen phase begins to grow. .Major damage to the hair that are submitted CHEMICAL DAMAGE straightening, permanent dyes and oxidizing conditions are damag ing to hair, as to the disruption of connections between proteins bissulfídicas decreasing the capillary force of the wire. Constants washes shampoos increase t he static electricity of hairs, intensifying the negative charges and contributi ng to the dryness of the wires. THERMAL DAMAGE The heat of the dryer, board and others generate the formation of peroxides (forming free radicals), promote wate r loss from the wire and the destruction of some amino acids (part of the hair p rotein), leaving the hair brittle and dehydrated. ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE The cumulative exposure of hair to environmental conditions (air pollutants, wind, sea, sun, pool) weakens the wire. Among these factors th e sun is most damaging because it leads to formation of free radicals. PHYSICAL DAMAGE combs and brushes are great enemies of hair as they undergo the wires to a large tractive force, often beyond the capacity of the elastic cord a nd thus ultimately smash it. As the hair straightening AND RELAXATION One of amino acids in keratin are cystine, responsible for disulfide bonds. Cyst ine, can interact with other cystine in the same polypeptide chain and form a cy steine by a covalent bond. These connections are responsible for waves that ap pear in our hair.€The break between these connections is that it allows the hair dresser shape the hair. The smoothing is a process that alters the shape of ha ir. For this to occur it is necessary that the product penetrates the hair fiber . The high pH of the emulsion swells the hair opens the cuticle and allows the a lkali between the cortex, reacting with the keratin and promoting the disruption of connections between these sulfur amino acids cysteine. The Formation of lant ionina fix the new shape of the hair.
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